Worth a Thousand Words

BUYING A CAMERA TO TAKE ALONG ON YOUR BIKE

Many of you have emailed me asking how I manage to take all of the pictures here at ElvisKennedy.com, especially the ones I take while on the bike. This article will address what camera to buy and how to use it when out cycling.

Point and shoot digital cameras. Has there ever been a product whose life cycle is so short? As recently as six months ago you could buy a camera and be sure that within a month or so it would be replaced with a newer, better and cheaper model. Not even PC's get replaced as fast as digital cameras. Has this got you down, bunko? Well I've got good news for you; the megapixel wars that drove camera development are over. That's right, buy a camera today and you will get years of use out of it without feeling that you made a mistake. This isn't to say that cameras won't improve or get cheaper because they will, but it won't happen nearly as fast.

The other piece of good news is that as this technology has matured and spread out almost any camera out there today will give you good pictures, with the only real differences in models being look, feel and features. I can almost hear you asking, "Hold on there Elvis, aren't the new 8 megapixel cameras twice as good as the 4 megapixel models?". In a word - no. The image sensor in almost every camera is exactly the same size. This sensor, (which records what you've got the camera pointed at - just like film did in 35mm days) contains tiny pixels that record data. When 1 million pixels where spread out (1 megapixel) on this sensor there was a lot of room in between the sweet spot of the pixels and this lead to less than stellar performance. Cameras improved dramatically as manufacturers were able to put more pixels onto the sensor. But a funny thing happened when they started putting (for marketing purposes) more than 6 or 7 million pixels on the sensor. In order to put so many pixels on a defined size they had to reduce the size of the pixels and at some point as the pixels shrunk in size - so did their quality. Camera companies knew that potential customers understood none of this and just thought that more megapixels meant a better picture. And these companies were naturally happy to have us all replacing our cameras every 6 months or so.

This is an oversimplification of course, and probably more information than you need but it serves to explain why almost any name brand camera that you buy in the 5-7 megapixel range will give you the ability to make a fine print for hanging on your wall or a lovely electronic image to email to grandma.

Great. Now that we know what megapixel size to focus on will the choice be easy? Unfortunately, no. There are literally hundreds of name brand cameras to choose from in the 5-7 megapixel range. So what else can we do to narrow our choices? Well, since we want to be able to use the camera while out cycling it needs to be on the smaller side. Sure, you could stuff one of the bigger cameras in your jersey pocket. These are all point & shoot cameras afterall, even the biggest one is small by 35mm SLR standards. Still, if it's not small, light, easy to get in and out of your pocket and easy to use - you just won't take it along. And that would defeat it's purpose.

What else are we looking for in a cycling camera? How about a big and bright screen? We'll be using this out in the bright sunshine and it would be nice to see what the camera is pointed at, wouldn't it? How about a lens that has a wide angle so that you can fit all of your cycling buddies into one shot without being a hundred yards out front? It also needs to have a so-called "dummy" or automatic mode. A setting whereby the camera does everything for you; focus, set the aperture, set the shutter speed, etc. (truly point and shoot). And you need to be able to use it successfully with one hand - safety first.

You also want a camera that does not use or need a lens cap. A lens cap is just something that will get in your way, affect your biking concentration (as you try to remove, keep track and replace it) and eventually get lost. A camera with a lens that retracts into the camera body when not in use is nice too. Easier to get it into and out of your pocket without a big lens 'nose' catching on everything.

Canon Powershot S2. Too bulky and requires a lens cap.

We've made some progress narrowing our choices. But what about brands? There are about 20 different brands that offer more than one camera that would fit out current list of needs. When I buy stuff I like to buy from companies in the business of making the products. What do I mean by this? As an example; Nikon is in the camera business. If they made a really crappy camera you'd never buy another Nikon camera. Which is to say that you'd never buy anything from Nikon. Plus, Nikon has decades of expertise in this business. Sony by contrast, isn't quite as concerned about making great cameras. They can still sell you a playstation, a computer, television, stereo, music CD's and so on. Sony, while they make fine digital cameras, aren't really in the camera business. I've got nothing against Sony it's just that we need to narrow our choices and sticking with companies that focus (note the pun) on photography is a smart choice. Along with eliminating Sony, we can eliminate Epson, Fuji, HP, JVC, Kodak, Kyocera, Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo and Toshiba. Don't feel bad if you've already got a camera made by one of these companies, our purpose here is simply to narrow our search for the prospective buyer. The only exception here is Casio, a camera that I use frequently. Why the exception? Because it was the smallest camera that met all of the requirements outlined above at the time I bought it. It's the size and weight of a deck of cards. Most of the pictures you see here at ElvisKennedy.com come from this little gem. It's a proven performer.

Casio EX-750. 3.5 x 2.4 x 0.9 inches.

Of of the real camera companies; Canon, Contax, Konica-Minolta, Leica, Nikon, Olympus and Pentax, we can eliminate Konica-Minolta and Contax as being too esoteric and Leica for being too expensive. Olympus is a very fine camera company that gets eliminated because they force you to use a proprietary memory card (more expensive, not as readily available).

Let's review. What we want in a camera are the following specifications;

Between 5 and 7 megapixels
A screen at least 2 inches wide, and bright
Lens that retracts into the camera body and uses no lens cap
Has an "auto everything" mode
Wide angle of 40mm or less
Easy to turn on/off with one hand
Easy to take a picture with one hand
Smaller is better
Made by one of the following; Canon, Casio, Nikon, Pentax

The rest of the specifications that fill the sales brochures, things like; DIGIC III Image Processor, Face Detection Technology, Super Sport Mode, One Shot Easy Print Mode and the rest really don't matter. It's all just marketing B.S. Don't concern yourself with them.

We've made great progess. Each of the four companies recommended by ElvisKennedy have 5 to 10 cameras that will meet our needs. We've reduced our possible and confusing choice set from hundreds down to about 30. But 30 is still a lot and you could spend weeks or months reading the on-line reviews, getting confused with specifications, reading glowing sales brochures and listening to salespeople who really have no idea what they're talking about. Or, you could let Elvis Kennedy do the heavy lifting and just pick one of the four that he recommends.

Each of the four cameras recommended here meet all of the criteria we've discussed and each comes from a different price point so that you'll have a nice selection from which to choose.

All of these cameras have the following features (in addition to those outlined above) that Elvis Kennedy feels are important; built-in flash, movie mode, self-timer, rechargeable battery (save the Earth!).

___________________________________________________________________

Canon Powershot SD800

7.1 megapixels / 2.5 inch screen / 28mm wide lens - excellent (also zooms to 105mm) / 3.5 x 2.3 x 1 inch / 6.9 ounces / $369.00
Super camera that also features an image stabilizer (anti-shake)- great for those bumpy roads!
Read more and buy it HERE.

___________________________________________________________________

Pentax Optio T20

7.1 megapixels / 3.0 inch screen / 37.5mm wide lens (also zooms to 112.5mm) / 3.7 x 2.3 x 0.8 inch / 5.5 ounces / $299.95
Big, 3 inch screen is nice.
Read more and buy it HERE.

___________________________________________________________________

Casio Exilim EX-S600

6.0 megapixels / 2.2 inch screen / 38mm wide lens (also zooms to 114mm) / 3.5 x 2.3 x 0.6 inch / 4.4 ounces / $239.95
Also has an anti-shake feature. Smallest and lightest. Choice of colors.
Read more and buy it HERE.

___________________________________________________________________

Nikon Coolpix S9

6.0 megapixels / 2.5 inch screen / 38mm wide lens (also zooms to 114mm) / 3.6 x 2.3 x 0.8 inch / 5.8 ounces / $209.95
Read more and buy it HERE.

___________________________________________________________________

For full disclosure; ElvisKennedy.com, unlike other sites, does NOT get a kick-back for referring readers to commercial sites. The on-line seller that Elvis recommends for all photography equipment is B&H in New York City. This is where the links for more info and to buy the cameras will take you. ElvisKennedy.com has been dealing with B&H for over 20 years. They are honest and they are legitimate. If you don't like something you purchase there, or you change your mind - return it for a full refund.

___________________________________________________________________

Here are some tips for using your new camera;

- Never push down on the shutter button. This motion will cause the camera to shake and the result will be a blurry picture. While your index finger is on the button, gently squeeze the camera between your index finger and your thumb (which is under the camera).

- Leave the lens at it's widest zoom setting. Not only will you get more of your cycling world on the picture, it's also the point at which most lenses offer the best quality imaging.

- Never use the 'digital zoom' settings. On or off the bike this is just a gimmick and will ruin your photos.

- Preset your camera to the auto mode so that you don't have to concern yourself with f-stops, shutter speeds and ISO settings. Off the bike you do worry about those things, don't you?

- Always have your camera set for the highest image quality. This will be under the picture/quality/resolution menu. Just set it for the biggest number or "Fine" or "High".

- Memory cards are cheap. Arm yourself with a 1 gig card and you will be able to take hundreds of photos. If you purchase by clicking on one of the links you can easily add a memory card to your order. Just browse the "Accessories" tab. Don't rely on the memory card provided with the camera. It's stupid small. Elvis Kennedy recommends that you get a 1 gig memory card. You could save 5 dollars by buying a smaller card but that would be silly. And if you stick with Sandisk or Lexar brands you won't have any trouble. This will add about $35.00 to your investment (if you buy on-line at ElvisKennedy's preferred vendor).

- Set the ISO (don't ask, doesn't matter) of your camera to 100 and leave it there. A higher number will add significant noise to your images.

- Play around with the video mode of these cameras. It's fun and easy, and you will (should) always have it with you since it's so portable. The quality is surprisingly high. Just look at THIS VIDEO shot on a bike with the little Casio. If you always have a little video camera handy you never know what you'll be able to do with it. Maybe you'll catch your boss doing something he/she shouldn't be doing. Then use the video to make one of two things; 1) yourself the boss after he/she gets fired, or 2) lots of blackmail money.

- When in video mode try not to do any zooming, and hold the camera still. Otherwise you'll get a crappy movie like that guy who recorded Saddam Hussein's hanging did. Pre-zoom for composition before hitting the record button and then hold the camera steady. It also helps if you refrain from chanting radical Islamic nonsense.

- In warm weather keep the camera in a little plastic baggy when on your bike. Otherwise it will get full of sweat.

- For heaven's sake - be careful! Especially if you try this while riding. Make sure that you practice operating the camera before taking it for a ride. Keep it in an easily accessible location. Have any settings set in advance. Pay attention to your cycling and your surroundings at all times. If you have to, guess by pointing your camera at it's intended target. Don't stare at the image screen (before or after shooting). You don't need perfect composition here.

The Boss, about to put the hammer down.

- Here's what Elvis does to get a good shot while riding. But first, a disclaimer. Elvis Kennedy does not recommend that anyone attempt to take pictures while riding a bike. It's dangerous. Don't do it. Really. Elvis Kennedy will not be responsible for anything bad that happens to you. Or any one else. Ever.

Some have asked how Elvis does it and here goes (This is an outline of what Elvis sometimes carefully does, not a recommendation for what you should do. You want a recommendation? Don't do it.);

1) Have an idea of what photo you want before whipping out the camera. If you just pull it out and start shooting you're unlikely to get anything worthwhile and you'll be thinking about photography instead of cycling. A front or behind shot of your cycling buddies is almost always a good choice. Especially with cool scenery around.
2) Look ahead for a smooth, open and empty stretch of road. Slight downhill is good so that you don't have to pedal.
3) Make sure that you're steady on the bike and get your camera out. Since you've preset everything (you did, didn't you?) and since it's already on auto mode (because you paid attention to the earlier comments) all you need to do is turn it on.
4) Carefully position yourself for the shot.
5) Maintaining a steady position, bring the camera up, point it at your desired target and shoot. You can briefly glance at the display to get a rough idea of your framing but don't stare at it. Never forget that you're on a bike. Remember that you can crop and straighten your pictures at home on the computer easily and more safely than you can while riding.
6) Take multiple shots. Since the road is bumpy and you're guessing at framing take 3 or 4 shots. Your odds of getting something worthwhile will go up.
7) Turn the camera off and put it away.
8) If you're not comfortable taking pictures on the bike don't fret. Just ride ahead, get off your bike and take the shots of your buddies as they roll by. If the scenery is pretty - stop and smell the roses. Then take a picture.
9) Never do this in traffic, in town, in big groups, in races or with cyclists who would rather you didn't. Or anywhere else or in any manner that is unsafe.
10) Some of the best shots are pre and post ride.

Review: Wippermann Connex Chain Link

If you're like me, you probably only remove your chain for replacement purposes. Removing it for cleaning is too time consuming as well as hard on the chain. And also like me, you probably use something like the Park chain scrubber to do the job. But I've never found that any of the on-the-bike chain cleaning devices work all that well. The only way to really clean a chain is to remove it from the bike and soak it in a good solvent. So what's an anal retentive cyclist to do? Find a way to easily remove, clean and reassemble the chain - that's what he does. Enter the Wippermann conneX chain link.

The Wippermann conneX chain link is designed to allow you to disassemble your chain in just a few seconds. The two small links replace one link in your chain and when used, allow you to quickly and easily take your chain off for cleaning, maintenance or replacement.

Kit for use with Shimano 10-speed chains

There has been much discussion in on-line chat rooms regarding the suitability of using these for any chains other than Wippermann brand chains. The set I purchased through Performance Bike for $6.99 (on sale, usual price $9.99) is claimed by Wippermann to be compatible with a Shimano 10-speed chain.

First, how easy are they to assemble to your chain? Five minutes. I took one set of side links off of my chain so that both ends of the chain were the inner rollers (see photo). The little post on each of the conneX links slips into the hole of the rollers (make sure that your chain is not twisted). Important: The direction in which you slip the pieces on the chain is important so that you keep the "guiding curve" of the link positioned properly. Pictures are better than words. Just follow the photos below and you'll be set.



Then comes the tricky part; turn one of the conneX links up and the other one down. Snap the post of the opposite link into the link opening nearest the center part of the link (see photo). Do this with both links. Then pull the chain while squeezing the conneX together and the links will straighten out and the posts will slip to the outermost opening where they will be locked in place. You can see a short slide show of this process by going HERE and clicking "see how it's done".

To disassemble, simply turn the conneX link 90 degrees to the chain, push the two ends of the chain connected by the link towards each other and carefully pull the two conneX links apart with a little sideways twist.



OK, now we've got the chain assembled. How does it work? Quite nicely, thank-you very much. I'm running a full Dura Ace drive train and the conneX link turns out to be compatible, running through the derailleur smoothly and quietly. You don't even know that it's there. If it's clean, that is. Since the side plates of the conneX are not being squeezed together by a pin like the rest of the links in the chain are, more dirt and grime can work their way into the link, causing it to get sticky and run rough. Is this a design feature or failure? If your chain has been subjected to enough gunk to cause the conneX to gum up, you should probably clean your chain. On the other hand, I'm lazy and don't like to be told what to do.

So what's the Elvis Kennedy verdict? We give it an 8.6 out of 10. It works like it should and makes removing the chain a snap. The fact that it can easily get gummed up is a concern, especially with Fall and bad weather quickly approaching. However, you'll have no excuses for not cleaning your chain at least once a week or so (roughly 250 miles) and if you keep it properly lubed (with a double dose on the conneX link) you should find that you'll get lots of riding in before the conneX tells you that it's bath time. A clean chain is a happy chain and the conneX link by Wippermann provides an easy, secure and inexpensive way to keep your chain happy.

Review: Specialized Transition Expert

The Specialized Transition Expert is Specialized's mid-line time trial bike. The S-Works bikes sit atop of Specialized's line and other, lesser grade Transition models are below. All of Specialized's time trial/triathlon frames are essentially the same with the componentry mixture setting the bikes apart. Here are the components as delivered on the stock bike;

FRAME: Specialized E5 AEROTEC, fully manipulated aero tubing, compact Transition design, internal brake and derailleur guides, replaceable derailleur hanger
FORK: Specialized FACT carbon aero Transition Speed Zertz, carbon legs, crown, and threadless steerer
HEADSET: Specialized Mindset Plus, 1 1/8" integrated threadless, sealed stainless steel cartridge bearings, carbon 20mm cone with two 5mm alloy spacers
STEM: Specialized Pro-Set lightweight stem, 3D forged alloy, 4-bolt 31.8mm bar clamp, 4- position adjustable
HANDLEBARS: Specialized Zertz Transition bullhorn bars, 31.8 clamp, with Profile Designs Carbon Stryke aero bars
TAPE: Body Geometry, cork ribbon
FRONT BRAKE: Shimano Ultegra
REAR BRAKE: Shimano Ultegra
BRAKE LEVERS: Tektro RX4.1 aero levers
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Ultegra, 31.8mm clamp, bottom pull
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Ultegra, short cage
SHIFT LEVERS: Shimano Dura-Ace, 10-speed bar con shifters
CASSETTE: Shimano Ultegra, 12-25t
CHAIN: Shimano Ultegra, 10-speed
CRANKSET: FSA SLK MegaExo, 2-piece carbon crankset
CHAINRINGS: 53x39T
BOTTOM BRACKET: FSA integrated, exterior cartridge bearings, alloy
RIMS: Mavic Cosmic Elite
FRONT HUB: Mavic Cosmic Elite, 18 hole, Mavic QR
REAR HUB: Mavic Cosmic Elite, 20 hole, Mavic QR
SPOKES: Stainless 14g aero
SADDLE: Body Geometry Transition Pro saddle, microfiber cover, full nose padding, cro-mo rails
SEAT POST: Specialized Transition carbon, aero seatpost with Speed Zertz
SEAT BINDER: Specialized CNC, alloy

Since I didn't need the Mavic Cosmic Elite wheels I sold them on ebay ($330.00) and slapped on the Mavic Kysrium SL's that I already had. I also put on a pair of Speedplay pedals from my rolling stock. I paid $1600.00 for the complete bike. This represents a good discount off of the $2400.00 list price and my dealer explained to me that Specialized was in a hurry to dump the 2006 line of aluminum time trial bikes because the 2007 frames will be made out of carbon fiber. This is a trade secret so please don't tell anyone. I don't really care. After selling the wheels I have a really nice TT bike for under $1300.00.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________

FRAME

The frame is made from aluminum. Specialized likes to impress you by calling it Aerotec E5 Alloy. The "E5 Alloy" comes from the fact that Specialized's aluminum is a blend of 5 different elements. No customer can understand the significance of this, if any. It's just marketing B.S. for aluminum. Aluminum is stiff and light and can be shaped easily, all pluses for a time trail frame. The downtube, seat tube and seat stays are all designed to provide an aerodynamic advantage, that's the "AEROTEC" piece.

Here is what the Specialized marketing people wanted you to read about this frame;

"The Specialized-designed Transition triathlon frame found on the Elite, Comp, and S-works models represents the best in modern aluminum manipulation technology. Our engineering department designed this ultra light race frame to have an extremely low drag coefficient, by radically butting, swaging, and shaping each tube to be optimized for aerodynamics and ride quality.

The NACA-designed elliptical downtube and seatstays are proven to reduce drag and deliver true aerodynamic performance. The aero downtube is an angled ellipse shape for minimum drag, but tapers to an oval for maximum stiffness at the BB junction. This unprecedented attention to shape manipulation sets new standards in weight, BB stiffness, aerodynamics, and ride quality.

Our engineering and technical prowess has been combined with Iron Man-winning geometry, designed with guidance from Tri legend Peter Reid, balancing rider position, center of gravity, and wheelbase. The headtube angle was slightly relaxed, the fork rake increased, and the trail increased to give the rider more stability at speeds. The chainstays were shortened, and the front-center was increased to keep the rider's weight centered over the bike for additional stability. The seat tube angle is 76 degrees for forward-biased weight placement, and the head tube is shorter to allow the rider to attain the critical aero position. Even details like our unique internal cable routing add to the aero advantage."

As a primer on bicycle aerodynamics it's important to understand that for any aero advantage at all, the depth of the object that is hitting the wind must be at least twice the dimension of the width, or frontal area. A 2:1 ratio. At this ratio and above the wind turbulence is lessened, reducing drag. Let's take the Transition's seatpost as an example;

The post on this bike is 1" wide and 2" deep. Even though a quick glance seems to indicate that the post is extremely aerodynamic it just meets the minimum 2:1 ratio. The forks, downtube, seat tube and seat stays all have ratios higher than 2:1. The aero seat stays are pretty snappy looking, too. This frame does in fact offer an aerodynamic advantage over traditional frames. Score one for Specialized. To read more about aerodynamics and bicycles see HERE.

For even more aerodynamic advantage the brake and derailleur cables are routed into and out of the frame, so-called, "internal routing". No lengthy cables catching the wind. Although I think that the cables near the front of a bike catch more wind that those that run along the top and down tubes. Still, I suppose it's a feature.

Note in the picture below how the downtube goes from thin and aero to thick and beefy (note also the exits for the cabling);

More important than profile and weight in frame design are dimension and geometry. That's because a rider's position on a time trial bike is much more important than the bike itself. The rider must be low, narrow and most importantly, comfortably positioned to be able to generate maximum power over time. Before dropping the cash on a TT bike I recommend that you take numerous test rides with a set of allen wrenches. Ride, adjust, ride adjust. When you find a bike that allows you to feel comfortable and powerful you'll know it. Don't listen to the sales-guy telling you how great and aero you look, or how flat your back is. If you feel good and fast and your chest is still open enough for proper breathing you've probably found an adequate bike. That being said, most TT bikes that you might buy today offer enough adjustments to get your body where it needs to be. A frame's seatube angle of 76 degrees sounds great, but proper saddle tilt, height and fore/aft are much more important. Don't get caught up in specs. Specs make for good reading, "feel" makes for good riding.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________

COMFORT

To get a rider comfortable on the Transition, Specialized offers a variety of nifty items. The fork, seatpost, Profile Design aero handlebars and FSA crank are all made of carbon which can dampen road shock and buzz. The handlebar tape is thick cork ribbon which can also absorb road buzz. The Specialized Body Geometry Transition Pro Saddle (whew!) is designed to both reduce pressure on your naughty parts at the rear of the saddle, as well as offer padding up front. Padding up front is important because when in the tuck position more of your weight will be forward on the saddle. Specialized also makes a very big deal about their Zertz technology. Zertz is another fancy marketing word. These Zertz things are basically bits of rubber that are wrapped around the fork legs, seatpost and handlebars. Since road buzz begins at the road/tire interface and moves up the frame to the rider, Zertz are placed between the road and the rider and supposedly absorb some of the buzz. Click HERE to read more of the marketing bla, bla, bla about Zertz technology. Keeping in mind that 'Zertz' sounds a lot cooler than 'rubber bands'.

Zertz rubber band Lots of adjustability and padding. Zertz band at bottom of photo

Finally, the cockpit design will allow riders of all shapes and sizes to find a comfy position. The arm rests are almost infinitely adjustable; fore/aft, up/down angle, side-to-side angle, and width can all be adjusted. The rest pads are thick and firm. The bullhorn bars can be twisted up and down. The aero bars move, in relation to the bars/pads; fore/aft, up/down, narrow/wide and can twist in or out. It will take a while to get all of these adjusted just right, but when you get there it will have been worth all of the trouble.

The final piece of gear that adds to your comfort are the bull horn bars. Look at the picture above, right. See how the bar flattens a bit under the arm pads? The rounded section of the outboard portion of the bars flatten towards the inboard area. This gives you lots of places to grip the handlebars that vary the pressure points. You'll have no excuses for getting numb hands or fingers.

All of these adjustments are to meet one single goal; comfortable aerodynamics. Aerodynamics is the most critical aspect of cycling speed but you must be comfortable in an aerodynamic position for anything longer than a 10 mile ride. I've included some links at the end of this review that you can read to learn more about aerodynamic positioning.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________

EQUIPMENT

As you can see from the parts list above, Shimano Ultegra stuff is featured. Ultegra offers most of the advantages and features of Shimano's top of the line Dura-Ace stuff. Weight, fit and finish are not quite to Dura-Ace standards but the price is significantly lower. I found the brakes to be every bit as good as the Dura-Ace stuff that I'm used too but we'll see how long it stays that way. One nice thing about Dura-Ace is it's durability and longevity. I think that the positioning of the brake levers at the end of the bullhorn bars makes it easier to apply pressure than when the levers are on the curve of normal road handlebars. That might be why the Ultegra brakes felt just like Dura-Ace.

Shifting with Ultegra was much stiffer and louder than with Dura-Ace but not so much as to detract from the overall feel of this bike. I don't ask much from the drivetrain (front deailleur, rear derailleur, chain, cassette), get me from one gear to the next without any trouble - the Ultegra stuff does it's job.

I've never ridden with carbon fiber cranks and the FSA SLK MegaExo are a nice introduction. Like Ultegra, they are not FSA's top shelf cranks but they offer most features of the expensive stuff; stiffness and light weight. They also use a two piece crank with exterior cartridge bearings which offer increased life and even load bearing. I don't detect any arm flex, and the carbon arms, in addition to looking cool, may be absorbing some road buzz.

The Zertz handlebars are light and comfortable but I would change the stem. It's just a heavy block of aluminum. Lots of inexpensive and lightweight carbon stems are available. The Tektro brake levers offer great feel and are easy to modulate, which is probably why I could compare the Ultegra brakes so favorably. The Profile Designs Stryke handlebars were very comfortable when I finally got them adjusted to the correct position, along with the arm rests. And the Dura-Ave bar end shifters are quick and accurate.

Specialized use their own proprietary integrated Mindset Plus headset. I would much prefer to be able to replace them with a Chris King headset, but I'll just have to live with it.

All in all a very nicely equipped bike. Since I can't change the headset the stem is the only thing that I will consider replacing.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________

RIDE

Each time I take this bike for a spin I'm favorably impressed with how it feels so light, stiff and fast. In cruise mode I can run two gears higher than normal. I had to stop a number of times during the initial rides to make micro adjustments to the cockpit and the saddle. You really need to ride a few miles, as opposed to riding around the dealer's parking lot, to get a good feel for a bike. Once the position was dialed in I made a point of riding through varied terrain so that I could test it out on flats, uphills, downhills and on twisty roads. Other than the steepest uphill sections I found that I could stay in the tuck position quite comfortably and was able to generate plenty of power on all roads.

I found that the multitude of available hand positions can make a long ride seem shorter because I was comfortable and relaxed. In the tuck position you can grab the bar extensions high or low, out far or in close. And the multi-shaped bull horn bars offer lots of grip points. It did take a while to get used to the bar end shifters. I found myself trying to push the brake levers inwards for shifting.

The fit and finish are remarkable for a bike at this pricepoint. I don't trust any bike dealer to properly set-up bikes and this one was no different. I needed to tighten the stuff bolted onto carbon (dealers appear to be afraid to over-tighten and therefore leave things a bit loose), and the stuff bolted onto aluminum was too tight. After those adjustments the bike exhibits no rattles, squeaks or other noises that lessor bicycles can make. The bike feels very tight and well put together. I can put it best this way; it felt very much like a $2400.00 bike. It's list price.

The Transition Expert offers a very smooth ride. Neither twitchy nor sluggish. One thing I do notice is that there is very little buzz on the pedals. Is this due to the Zertz stuff throughout the bike? Is it the carbon crankset (this is my first carbon crank)? Or is it that in the tuck position some of your weight is shifted off of your feet and onto the saddle and handlebars? I suspect it's the latter but in any event the ride is remarkably smooth and comfortable.

The fork, being aero, has more carbon fiber material than what you find on most road bikes. This additional carbon fiber allows the fork to absorb lots of road buzz and shock. The front end of this bike is extremely comfortable. Even on rough roads you will be able to maintain your aero position and apply power evenly.

I do note that direction changes require more input than what my Colnago requires, but that's probably not a fair comparison given that the Colnago's list price is about three times that of this bike. On fast downhills the Colnago really shines with picking a line and then sticking to it as if on rails. This Specialized does not have this quality and requires more attention. Certainly not enough attention to classify it as sluggish, just not as refined as the Colnago.

Even a short spin on the bike will confirm the stiffness and lightness of it's aluminum frame. Some parts of the frame may be thin and aero, but the bottom bracket and headtube junctions are beefy, minimizing frame flex during out of the saddle accelerations or when grinding uphill. I've detected no frame flex whatsoever. The lack of flex in the bottom bracket and headtube make this bike feel lighter than it is. All applied power goes to forward motion. A terrific trait for a time trial bike.

The saddle is very cushy compared to the Fizik that I usually ride and I've never been a fan of anything but firm saddles. However, this Specialized model has me convinced that for time trials a cushy saddle is the way to go. Bent over in a tuck position puts a lot of pressure on a very small area at the front of your pelvis. Ride like this for an hour on a firm saddle and you'll be looking for a Viagra prescription. But this cushy saddle effectively spreads the contact area out a bit and really adds to the overall comfort of this bike's ride. Do you lose some efficiency with a less than firm saddle? Probably. But you gain it back in spades by being comfortable for a longer period of time.

At 18.8 pounds as I have it set up it's not by any means a bike for you weigh weenies out there. But keep in mind that a light weight bike is not that important when it comes to time trials or triathlons. Getting up to speed and maintaining it with comfort and power is. As I mentioned earlier, finding a bike that fits you like a glove while putting you into an aero position is the goal with any TT bike.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

OVERALL AND RATING

Overall I find the Specialized Transition Expert to be a high quality time trail bike at it's price. I find no significant compromises on frame build or equipment selection. It's extremely comfortable when properly set up and is light enough for hilly courses. I did swap out the stock wheels and have heard that they are heavy and a bit sluggish so check them out if you plan to use them on this bike. The bike is stiff and fast. Isn't that what we are all looking for in a time trail/triathlon bike?

Elvis Kennedy's Rating:

Overall: 8.5
Ride: 8.5
Fit/Finish: 8.0
Value: 9.5
Components: 8.0


Here are some links if you'd like to learn more;

Specialized
Bike Fit for Time Trial/Triathlon
Time Trail Body Positioning
Positioning for Aerodynamics

And some more photos;


Carbon FSA crank


Beefy bottom bracket and outboard bottom bracket bearings


Bull horn handlebar brake levers



Aero downtube widening for stiffness


Dura-Ace bar-ends shifters




Whadda you lookin' at?

Review: Specialized Transition Expert

The Specialized Transition Expert is Specialized's mid-line time trial bike. The S-Works bikes sit atop of Specialized's line and other, lesser grade Transition models are below. All of Specialized's time trial/triathlon frames are essentially the same with the componentry mixture setting the bikes apart. Here are the components as delivered on the stock bike;

FRAME: Specialized E5 AEROTEC, fully manipulated aero tubing, compact Transition design, internal brake and derailleur guides, replaceable derailleur hanger
FORK: Specialized FACT carbon aero Transition Speed Zertz, carbon legs, crown, and threadless steerer
HEADSET: Specialized Mindset Plus, 1 1/8" integrated threadless, sealed stainless steel cartridge bearings, carbon 20mm cone with two 5mm alloy spacers
STEM: Specialized Pro-Set lightweight stem, 3D forged alloy, 4-bolt 31.8mm bar clamp, 4- position adjustable
HANDLEBARS: Specialized Zertz Transition bullhorn bars, 31.8 clamp, with Profile Designs Carbon Stryke aero bars
TAPE: Body Geometry, cork ribbon
FRONT BRAKE: Shimano Ultegra
REAR BRAKE: Shimano Ultegra
BRAKE LEVERS: Tektro RX4.1 aero levers
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Ultegra, 31.8mm clamp, bottom pull
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Ultegra, short cage
SHIFT LEVERS: Shimano Dura-Ace, 10-speed bar con shifters
CASSETTE: Shimano Ultegra, 12-25t
CHAIN: Shimano Ultegra, 10-speed
CRANKSET: FSA SLK MegaExo, 2-piece carbon crankset
CHAINRINGS: 53x39T
BOTTOM BRACKET: FSA integrated, exterior cartridge bearings, alloy
RIMS: Mavic Cosmic Elite
FRONT HUB: Mavic Cosmic Elite, 18 hole, Mavic QR
REAR HUB: Mavic Cosmic Elite, 20 hole, Mavic QR
SPOKES: Stainless 14g aero
SADDLE: Body Geometry Transition Pro saddle, microfiber cover, full nose padding, cro-mo rails
SEAT POST: Specialized Transition carbon, aero seatpost with Speed Zertz
SEAT BINDER: Specialized CNC, alloy

Since I didn't need the Mavic Cosmic Elite wheels I sold them on ebay ($330.00) and slapped on the Mavic Kysrium SL's that I already had. I also put on a pair of Speedplay pedals from my rolling stock. I paid $1600.00 for the complete bike. This represents a good discount off of the $2400.00 list price and my dealer explained to me that Specialized was in a hurry to dump the 2006 line of aluminum time trial bikes because the 2007 frames will be made out of carbon fiber. This is a trade secret so please don't tell anyone. I don't really care. After selling the wheels I have a really nice TT bike for under $1300.00.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________

FRAME

The frame is made from aluminum. Specialized likes to impress you by calling it Aerotec E5 Alloy. The "E5 Alloy" comes from the fact that Specialized's aluminum is a blend of 5 different elements. No customer can understand the significance of this, if any. It's just marketing B.S. for aluminum. Aluminum is stiff and light and can be shaped easily, all pluses for a time trail frame. The downtube, seat tube and seat stays are all designed to provide an aerodynamic advantage, that's the "AEROTEC" piece.

Here is what the Specialized marketing people wanted you to read about this frame;

"The Specialized-designed Transition triathlon frame found on the Elite, Comp, and S-works models represents the best in modern aluminum manipulation technology. Our engineering department designed this ultra light race frame to have an extremely low drag coefficient, by radically butting, swaging, and shaping each tube to be optimized for aerodynamics and ride quality.

The NACA-designed elliptical downtube and seatstays are proven to reduce drag and deliver true aerodynamic performance. The aero downtube is an angled ellipse shape for minimum drag, but tapers to an oval for maximum stiffness at the BB junction. This unprecedented attention to shape manipulation sets new standards in weight, BB stiffness, aerodynamics, and ride quality.

Our engineering and technical prowess has been combined with Iron Man-winning geometry, designed with guidance from Tri legend Peter Reid, balancing rider position, center of gravity, and wheelbase. The headtube angle was slightly relaxed, the fork rake increased, and the trail increased to give the rider more stability at speeds. The chainstays were shortened, and the front-center was increased to keep the rider's weight centered over the bike for additional stability. The seat tube angle is 76 degrees for forward-biased weight placement, and the head tube is shorter to allow the rider to attain the critical aero position. Even details like our unique internal cable routing add to the aero advantage."

As a primer on bicycle aerodynamics it's important to understand that for any aero advantage at all, the depth of the object that is hitting the wind must be at least twice the dimension of the width, or frontal area. A 2:1 ratio. At this ratio and above the wind turbulence is lessened, reducing drag. Let's take the Transition's seatpost as an example;

The post on this bike is 1" wide and 2" deep. Even though a quick glance seems to indicate that the post is extremely aerodynamic it just meets the minimum 2:1 ratio. The forks, downtube, seat tube and seat stays all have ratios higher than 2:1. The aero seat stays are pretty snappy looking, too. This frame does in fact offer an aerodynamic advantage over traditional frames. Score one for Specialized. To read more about aerodynamics and bicycles see HERE.

For even more aerodynamic advantage the brake and derailleur cables are routed into and out of the frame, so-called, "internal routing". No lengthy cables catching the wind. Although I think that the cables near the front of a bike catch more wind that those that run along the top and down tubes. Still, I suppose it's a feature.

Note in the picture below how the downtube goes from thin and aero to thick and beefy (note also the exits for the cabling);

More important than profile and weight in frame design are dimension and geometry. That's because a rider's position on a time trial bike is much more important than the bike itself. The rider must be low, narrow and most importantly, comfortably positioned to be able to generate maximum power over time. Before dropping the cash on a TT bike I recommend that you take numerous test rides with a set of allen wrenches. Ride, adjust, ride adjust. When you find a bike that allows you to feel comfortable and powerful you'll know it. Don't listen to the sales-guy telling you how great and aero you look, or how flat your back is. If you feel good and fast and your chest is still open enough for proper breathing you've probably found an adequate bike. That being said, most TT bikes that you might buy today offer enough adjustments to get your body where it needs to be. A frame's seatube angle of 76 degrees sounds great, but proper saddle tilt, height and fore/aft are much more important. Don't get caught up in specs. Specs make for good reading, "feel" makes for good riding.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________

COMFORT

To get a rider comfortable on the Transition, Specialized offers a variety of nifty items. The fork, seatpost, Profile Design aero handlebars and FSA crank are all made of carbon which can dampen road shock and buzz. The handlebar tape is thick cork ribbon which can also absorb road buzz. The Specialized Body Geometry Transition Pro Saddle (whew!) is designed to both reduce pressure on your naughty parts at the rear of the saddle, as well as offer padding up front. Padding up front is important because when in the tuck position more of your weight will be forward on the saddle. Specialized also makes a very big deal about their Zertz technology. Zertz is another fancy marketing word. These Zertz things are basically bits of rubber that are wrapped around the fork legs, seatpost and handlebars. Since road buzz begins at the road/tire interface and moves up the frame to the rider, Zertz are placed between the road and the rider and supposedly absorb some of the buzz. Click HERE to read more of the marketing bla, bla, bla about Zertz technology. Keeping in mind that 'Zertz' sounds a lot cooler than 'rubber bands'.

Zertz rubber band Lots of adjustability and padding. Zertz band at bottom of photo

Finally, the cockpit design will allow riders of all shapes and sizes to find a comfy position. The arm rests are almost infinitely adjustable; fore/aft, up/down angle, side-to-side angle, and width can all be adjusted. The rest pads are thick and firm. The bullhorn bars can be twisted up and down. The aero bars move, in relation to the bars/pads; fore/aft, up/down, narrow/wide and can twist in or out. It will take a while to get all of these adjusted just right, but when you get there it will have been worth all of the trouble.

The final piece of gear that adds to your comfort are the bull horn bars. Look at the picture above, right. See how the bar flattens a bit under the arm pads? The rounded section of the outboard portion of the bars flatten towards the inboard area. This gives you lots of places to grip the handlebars that vary the pressure points. You'll have no excuses for getting numb hands or fingers.

All of these adjustments are to meet one single goal; comfortable aerodynamics. Aerodynamics is the most critical aspect of cycling speed but you must be comfortable in an aerodynamic position for anything longer than a 10 mile ride. I've included some links at the end of this review that you can read to learn more about aerodynamic positioning.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________

EQUIPMENT

As you can see from the parts list above, Shimano Ultegra stuff is featured. Ultegra offers most of the advantages and features of Shimano's top of the line Dura-Ace stuff. Weight, fit and finish are not quite to Dura-Ace standards but the price is significantly lower. I found the brakes to be every bit as good as the Dura-Ace stuff that I'm used too but we'll see how long it stays that way. One nice thing about Dura-Ace is it's durability and longevity. I think that the positioning of the brake levers at the end of the bullhorn bars makes it easier to apply pressure than when the levers are on the curve of normal road handlebars. That might be why the Ultegra brakes felt just like Dura-Ace.

Shifting with Ultegra was much stiffer and louder than with Dura-Ace but not so much as to detract from the overall feel of this bike. I don't ask much from the drivetrain (front deailleur, rear derailleur, chain, cassette), get me from one gear to the next without any trouble - the Ultegra stuff does it's job.

I've never ridden with carbon fiber cranks and the FSA SLK MegaExo are a nice introduction. Like Ultegra, they are not FSA's top shelf cranks but they offer most features of the expensive stuff; stiffness and light weight. They also use a two piece crank with exterior cartridge bearings which offer increased life and even load bearing. I don't detect any arm flex, and the carbon arms, in addition to looking cool, may be absorbing some road buzz.

The Zertz handlebars are light and comfortable but I would change the stem. It's just a heavy block of aluminum. Lots of inexpensive and lightweight carbon stems are available. The Tektro brake levers offer great feel and are easy to modulate, which is probably why I could compare the Ultegra brakes so favorably. The Profile Designs Stryke handlebars were very comfortable when I finally got them adjusted to the correct position, along with the arm rests. And the Dura-Ave bar end shifters are quick and accurate.

Specialized use their own proprietary integrated Mindset Plus headset. I would much prefer to be able to replace them with a Chris King headset, but I'll just have to live with it.

All in all a very nicely equipped bike. Since I can't change the headset the stem is the only thing that I will consider replacing.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________

RIDE

Each time I take this bike for a spin I'm favorably impressed with how it feels so light, stiff and fast. In cruise mode I can run two gears higher than normal. I had to stop a number of times during the initial rides to make micro adjustments to the cockpit and the saddle. You really need to ride a few miles, as opposed to riding around the dealer's parking lot, to get a good feel for a bike. Once the position was dialed in I made a point of riding through varied terrain so that I could test it out on flats, uphills, downhills and on twisty roads. Other than the steepest uphill sections I found that I could stay in the tuck position quite comfortably and was able to generate plenty of power on all roads.

I found that the multitude of available hand positions can make a long ride seem shorter because I was comfortable and relaxed. In the tuck position you can grab the bar extensions high or low, out far or in close. And the multi-shaped bull horn bars offer lots of grip points. It did take a while to get used to the bar end shifters. I found myself trying to push the brake levers inwards for shifting.

The fit and finish are remarkable for a bike at this pricepoint. I don't trust any bike dealer to properly set-up bikes and this one was no different. I needed to tighten the stuff bolted onto carbon (dealers appear to be afraid to over-tighten and therefore leave things a bit loose), and the stuff bolted onto aluminum was too tight. After those adjustments the bike exhibits no rattles, squeaks or other noises that lessor bicycles can make. The bike feels very tight and well put together. I can put it best this way; it felt very much like a $2400.00 bike. It's list price.

The Transition Expert offers a very smooth ride. Neither twitchy nor sluggish. One thing I do notice is that there is very little buzz on the pedals. Is this due to the Zertz stuff throughout the bike? Is it the carbon crankset (this is my first carbon crank)? Or is it that in the tuck position some of your weight is shifted off of your feet and onto the saddle and handlebars? I suspect it's the latter but in any event the ride is remarkably smooth and comfortable.

The fork, being aero, has more carbon fiber material than what you find on most road bikes. This additional carbon fiber allows the fork to absorb lots of road buzz and shock. The front end of this bike is extremely comfortable. Even on rough roads you will be able to maintain your aero position and apply power evenly.

I do note that direction changes require more input than what my Colnago requires, but that's probably not a fair comparison given that the Colnago's list price is about three times that of this bike. On fast downhills the Colnago really shines with picking a line and then sticking to it as if on rails. This Specialized does not have this quality and requires more attention. Certainly not enough attention to classify it as sluggish, just not as refined as the Colnago.

Even a short spin on the bike will confirm the stiffness and lightness of it's aluminum frame. Some parts of the frame may be thin and aero, but the bottom bracket and headtube junctions are beefy, minimizing frame flex during out of the saddle accelerations or when grinding uphill. I've detected no frame flex whatsoever. The lack of flex in the bottom bracket and headtube make this bike feel lighter than it is. All applied power goes to forward motion. A terrific trait for a time trial bike.

The saddle is very cushy compared to the Fizik that I usually ride and I've never been a fan of anything but firm saddles. However, this Specialized model has me convinced that for time trials a cushy saddle is the way to go. Bent over in a tuck position puts a lot of pressure on a very small area at the front of your pelvis. Ride like this for an hour on a firm saddle and you'll be looking for a Viagra prescription. But this cushy saddle effectively spreads the contact area out a bit and really adds to the overall comfort of this bike's ride. Do you lose some efficiency with a less than firm saddle? Probably. But you gain it back in spades by being comfortable for a longer period of time.

At 18.8 pounds as I have it set up it's not by any means a bike for you weigh weenies out there. But keep in mind that a light weight bike is not that important when it comes to time trials or triathlons. Getting up to speed and maintaining it with comfort and power is. As I mentioned earlier, finding a bike that fits you like a glove while putting you into an aero position is the goal with any TT bike.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

OVERALL AND RATING

Overall I find the Specialized Transition Expert to be a high quality time trail bike at it's price. I find no significant compromises on frame build or equipment selection. It's extremely comfortable when properly set up and is light enough for hilly courses. I did swap out the stock wheels and have heard that they are heavy and a bit sluggish so check them out if you plan to use them on this bike. The bike is stiff and fast. Isn't that what we are all looking for in a time trail/triathlon bike?

Elvis Kennedy's Rating:

Overall: 8.5
Ride: 8.5
Fit/Finish: 8.0
Value: 9.5
Components: 8.0


Here are some links if you'd like to learn more;

Specialized
Bike Fit for Time Trial/Triathlon
Time Trail Body Positioning
Positioning for Aerodynamics

And some more photos;


Carbon FSA crank


Beefy bottom bracket and outboard bottom bracket bearings


Bull horn handlebar brake levers



Aero downtube widening for stiffness


Dura-Ace bar-ends shifters




Whadda you lookin' at?